Our introduction to Arab Lands

Our first encounters with the Arab world…..
DUBAI-(UNITED ARAB EMERATES)

On the surface, Dubai has failed Larry’s cultural substance test: what you see is impressive but it’s only skin deep. The ruling Sheiks from the Maktoum Dynasty have worked hard to create a world class modern city and it appears they have achieved that goal. Having discovered oil in the mid-60’s, they are very proud to have the worlds tallest, only, biggest etc. facilities; and they keep building them. At present, 20% of the world’s cranes are reportedly being used in Dubai. Can you believe a ski slope with real (man made) snow in the middle of a desert? They have one. They have built several, large air conditioned and modern shopping malls with all the finest designer labels giving the image of conspicuous consumption by wealthy visitors. I now understand why Tiger Woods comes here every year for a golf Tournament. The resorts are big, beautiful, opulent, and exclusive. All the guides we listened to were proud and talked of little else than the money being spent here. Of course the growth is all related to oil money and the desire of the ruling Sheikes to spend it on infrastructure. Only 20% of the resident population are citizens and they are taken care of womb to tomb. The Sheikes are very cautious not to allow new citizens due to the benefits available. The balance of residents are expatriates living off of the fantastic development activities. However, it is estimated that oil supplies will be exhausted by 2010 and the hope is to create a resort and business community that will sustain itself after the oil revenues are gone. An interesting byline was our traveling partners, the Kredels, visit to the new (four month old and open) Raffles hotel, 16 floors of mostly empty rooms at $1100 a night.(hmmm???) Everything is very, very expensive here so only the rich and famous will be able to take advantage of the luxury. Will it be able to sustain itself?, at these costs it’s unclear.
For our part, we toured the city by guided double deck busses for over three hours in the heat. Dubai was our highest port temperature to date, topping off in the high 90’s. At the end of our tour, we enjoyed beverages at a local Starbucks located in one of the fabulous indoor malls while waiting for our shuttle bus back to the ship. Next stop, Salalah, Oman.

SALALAH, OMAN
The city of Salalah is known as the “perfume capitol of Arabia”. In ancient times, this area was the center of the incense trade, a treasured commodity in the ancient world. Camel caravans and ships brought frankincense, balsam, and myrrh thousands of miles from this southern Arabian port to serve the markets of Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Frankincense and incense burners are still common products and frequently sold in the local markets.
Today, coconut trees, palms, tropical fruit trees and aromatic foliage surround Salalah. Agriculture is a mainstay. The land is fertile and fed by underground subterranean water reserve systems. Despite lying close to the Arabian Desert, Salalah enjoys a temperate climate through most of the year as a result of a monsoon season (June to early September). The city has beautiful white sand beaches and is a destination resort area for the peoples of the Persian Gulf region.
Although a modern place, Omani tradition rules everyday life. National dress is worn in the workplace and when out and about. Men wear white, floor length robes known as dishdash and a headdress with a scarf that can be wound around a pill box cap to form a turban. The women wear floor length black cloaks called the abaya, a head scarf, and face covering called a burqa. It was very easy to spot the tourists and those that were residents given this difference in attire. The government and city shops close at 1PM on Thursday and remain closed on Friday, which is the Muslim weekend.
While in Salalah, Larry remained on ship, still recovering from tummy troubles picked up in India. Ruthanne, along with four traveling companions, went ashore and toured this city of antiquity.
Just outside of the city lies the Al Balid archaeological site, the ruins of a fortified town that was an important port from 100BC-400AD. It was a beautiful spot on a hillside above a fresh water stream that fed into the Arabian Sea. Why the ancient port was abandoned remains a mystery.
Our tour visited three tombs; Nabi Imran, father of the Virgin Mary; the Islamic prophet, Mohammed Bin Ali, which offered a fine example of medieval Islamic architecture; and the prophet, Job whose tomb was located in the hills a little over an hours drive from the city. Job’s tomb continues to draw religious pilgrims from all over the world.
While traveling to Job’s tomb, we saw free range camels grazing in their natural habitat. It was a site to see. The terrain was very similar to the I-10 freeway from LaQuinta to Phoenix, desert with scrub shrubs, a few trees and outlined by dramatic desert mountains. The one exception was the plethora of free roaming camel in all sizes. The Omani people use camel for transportation, leather, milk and meat.
Our last stop was an open air, primitive fish and meat market. After opening the tour bus doors, our noses were assaulted with the smells raw fish and meat remains produce when subjected to desert heat. Needless to say, the ladies did not leave the bus, quickly closed the bus door after the men had stepped out, and waited for them to explore this site on their own! Upon their return, the men agreed we had used good judgment in remaining on the bus.
Next stop, Safaga, Egypt.